Trelise Cooper Black Raw Silk Duster Coat, Unlined, Size 10 (runs small, fits NZ8 better)

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Trelise Cooper silk coat, combining classic tailoring with exactly the kind of unexpected detail that makes the designer's earlier work so interesting. Made from black textured silk, the coat has a wonderful naturally slubbed surface with fine irregular vertical lines running through the weave. Rather than the liquid finish of satin or charmeuse, this is a more architectural type of silk with a subtle lustre and enough body to hold the long tailored silhouette beautifully. In different light it moves between deep matte black and a soft sheen, which gives an otherwise minimalist garment considerably more depth. The design is wonderfully restrained from the front. It has an elongated, almost duster-like silhouette with traditional notched lapels, gently structured shoulders with pads, a clean single-button closure and long straight panels falling towards the hem. The sleeves are cut to a sophisticated three-quarter length, giving the coat the slightly unconventional proportions characteristic of designer tailoring from the late 1990s and early 2000s. There is very little unnecessary decoration. The interest comes instead from proportion, texture and construction. And then there is the back. Across the back waist sits a striking scarlet-red grosgrain band, creating a sharp graphic interruption against the otherwise entirely black coat. It subtly defines the waist while giving the garment an unexpected flash of color. From the front the coat appears understated and almost minimalist. From behind, that brilliant red detail completely changes its personality. It is such a good example of how a seemingly simple black coat can become something distinctly designer through one carefully considered detail. The silk itself is also an important part of the design. Its irregular slubbed texture is intentional and inherent to this type of woven silk. The small variations, thicker threads and fine irregularities visible throughout the surface are characteristics of the fabric rather than pulls or damage. The overall silhouette feels particularly relevant again now. Although unmistakably an earlier designer piece, it doesn't have the heavily embellished or overtly feminine appearance associated with some later Trelise Cooper collections. Instead, this one sits much closer to early-2000s minimalist tailoring: long, lean, slightly austere and sophisticated, with one unexpected injection of color. The coat has a long, elegant silhouette with enough structure to feel tailored without looking like conventional corporate outerwear. The single-button front creates a long uninterrupted vertical line, while the red back detail provides subtle waist definition. The bracelet-length sleeves are especially good. Rather than looking as though a conventional sleeve has simply been shortened, they give the entire coat a deliberately stylized proportion and make it ideal for showing a fine knit cuff, watch or statement bracelet underneath. Depending on height, expect it to sit somewhere around the knee to below the knee. For the cleanest interpretation, wear it with black wide-leg trousers, pointed ankle boots and a structured black bag. The silk provides enough texture that an all-black outfit doesn't become flat, while the scarlet band appears unexpectedly when you turn around. For a more contemporary everyday look, you will love this with straight vintage blue denim, a simple white T-shirt or tank, loafers and a slightly oversized leather bag. Mixing the refined silk with worn denim stops it becoming an “occasion coat” and makes the early-2000s character much more obvious. For evening, it could be worn over a simple bias-cut black slip dress with minimal jewelry and narrow heels. Keep everything else quiet and let the silhouette, silk and red back detail do the work. It would also look excellent with a flash of red socks, shoes, lipstick or a small red bag. Please compare your measurements with the ones provided below, as sizing may vary between different manufacturers. Tag size: 10. Runs small, fits better size 8 or smaller. Does not stretch. Actual flat measurements: Shoulders (seam to seam) – 37 Armhole width – 23 Sleeve length (from underarm) – 35 Cuff – 11 Chest (underarm to underarm) – 45 Waist – 38 Hips – 52 Hem – 63 Full length – 103 General condition of the item: Very good. The silk presents beautifully overall and retains its characteristic texture and subtle luster. No stains, holes or structural damage. The original designer label and size tag are attached. The secondary care composition labels show fading consistent with age, but the silk composition is still identifiable. Imperfections: Please note that the natural irregularities and slubs visible throughout the silk are part of the original woven texture of the fabric, not defects. Slight yellowing on the neck tag. There may be very minor signs of previous wear consistent with its age. Overall, found nothing worth mentioning as a defect. Item condition (1–10): 8 #37